100% Coconut Oil Soap With Aloe Vera
From tuilelaith 3 years ago
- 2 - 3 hours to make
- Serves 1
Defying the Rules of Soapmaking: 100% Coconut Oil Soap with Aloe Vera and a Mantra Swirl https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/defying-the-rules-of-soapmaking-100-coconut-oil-soap-with-aloe-vera-and-a-mantra-swirl/ August 28, 2013 Filed Under: Cold Process Soap / Today’s tutorials comes to you from one of my favorite soapmakers, Kenna from Modern Soapmaking. Read more Her soaps always have unique designs, ingredients and colors. She is consistently pushing the soaping envelope. This recipe is particularly intriguing because it breaks a few conventional soaping “rules.” There are a lot of “rules” of soap making that get spread around like wildfire, and for the most part, they are true… But not always! 100% coconut oil soap defies not one, not two, but THREE of the soapmaking rules I’ve heard from other soap makers in the past: Single oil soaps do not perform as well as synergistic formulas with multiple oils. Using over 30-40% coconut oil in a soap recipe is too drying for the skin. Superfatting above 10% will leave too many free oils and cause the soap to spoil or develop DOS. What’s the magic soap recipe? I hit the workshop to make a 100% coconut oil soap with a 20% superfat, an amazingly luxurious formula that is one of my all time favorites. Plus, I power-packed it with goodies, too, like coconut flour and aloe vera juice, and pulled out a mantra swirl with an embed. Coconut oil has great shelf life and stability, so it’s the perfect oil for extreme superfatting. This coconut oil soap formula results in a rock hard bar, with luscious lather, without drying the skin out. Ready to give it a shot? Let’s do this thing. See less
Ingredients
- 36 oz coconut Oil shopping list
- 5.18 oz Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) shopping list
- 10.53 oz chilled Aloe Vera Liquid, I am using Aloe Vera Juice - regular shopping list
- 1.5 oz Fragrance Oil (optional), I am using 2 Tablespoons - Your Scents shopping list
- 2 tsp coconut Flour (optional), NOT using shopping list
- Soap balls for embeds (optional), NOT using shopping list
- 2 teaspoons of Mica (optional), NOT using shopping list
- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ shopping list
- Silicone Loaf Mold shopping list
- a 5 quart bucket shopping list
- a 2-cup measuring cup with spout shopping list
- three 4-cup measuring cups with spouts shopping list
- a piece of cardboard cut to fit in the mold shopping list
- Bamboo Skewer shopping list
- Spatula shopping list
- Stick Blender shopping list
- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ shopping list
- NOTE: I was taught by my Grand Mother to add 1 Tablespoon of sugar, per recipe, it helps it too make more suds. You also can add, or so a professional soap maker told me, caster oil, I am not sure how much, it too will give you better suds! shopping list
- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ shopping list
- 3 Ways to Add Sugar to Your Soap Recipe for More Lather shopping list
- https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/add-sugar-for-super-bubbles-517223 shopping list
- Simple Methods to Increase Your Bubble Factor shopping list
- Written by David Fisher shopping list
- Updated 09/28/19 shopping list
- ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ shopping list
- Sunday Night Spotlight: Castor Oil - Soap Queen shopping list
- https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/sunday-night-spotlight-castor-oil/ shopping list
- In cold process soap, castor oil is typically used around 2-5% of the total oil weight. I've found using more than 10% can lead to a slightly sticky bar. Even a small amount of castor oil (such as 1%) contributes to a stable and fluffy lather.Mar 20, 2016 shopping list
How to make it
- Get Down to Business:
- This tutorial assumes you are an experienced soap maker. If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAADF6209996265D2) on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR6ttCSrLJI&list=PLAADF6209996265D2&index=2).
- ONE: Prepare your mold by lining it, if necessary. Cut out a piece of cardboard that fits length and height-wise into your mold snugly. Place the piece of cardboard down the center of the mold to divide the mold in half lengthwise. See Photo
- TWO: Prepare your lye solution by slowly pouring the sodium hydroxide into the chilled aloe vera juice, stirring until the lye has dissolved. The aloe vera will turn a mustard yellow color, like pictured to the right. Allow to cool. See Photo
- THREE: Heat your coconut oil to about 120° to 130° F. You want to soap this formula hot (I usually soap at room temperature), soaping coconut oil at too low of a temperature will increase your chances of false trace. I add my fragrance to my oils before my lye solution so I don’t forget it later on. See Photo
- FOUR: Prepare two containers with mica for coloring the soap halves. I use 1 tsp of mica and 1 tsp of coconut flour per container, with 2 tsp of base oils for each container from my main soaping pot. Using a frother, I thoroughly mix the mica and coconut flour with the oils.
- FIVE: Combine half of your lye solution with your coconut oil, and stick blend thoroughly. Add the remaining half of your lye solution, and stick blend only until emulsified. I always refrain from over-mixing – bringing your soap to an emulsion first, and then adding anything extra allows you more time to focus on what is happening with the soap. See Photo
- SIX: Split the batch of coconut oil soap between your two containers and thoroughly mix with a spatula. If you are still at a barely emulsified or very light trace, bring the coconut oil soap in each container to a medium trace using your stick blender. A medium trace is my favorite pour viscosity for a mantra. See Photo
- SEVEN: When your mica and coconut flour are thoroughly mixed into each part, begin your pour. I pour both halves at the same time so that there is equal force and weight on each side of the cardboard divider. You can also use two more pieces of cardboard on the ends of your mold with notches cutout to hold the divider in place. See Photo
- EIGHT: Once both halves are poured, carefully and slowly pull your cardboard divider straight up out of the mold. If you are embedding soap balls, use a bamboo skewer to push them down into the soap. Or place them mid-way through pouring. See Photo
- NINE: Using a bamboo skewer (or chopstick, or your personal weapon of choice!), swirl the mantra. Pushing the skewer down into the mold all the way to the bottom will swirl both sides of your soap. If you only put the end of the skewer into the soap, you can swirl just the top, leaving a crisp line between the two halves in the bars. See Photo
- TEN: Put the pretty soap to sleep. I do not insulate coconut oil soap, but you can if you want to (same with CPOPing.) Unmold and cut the coconut oil soap as soon as it has hardened up. It sets up real hard, and real quick! You’ll want to clean up the bars of coconut oil soap straight out of the mold, such as beveling or planing – this soap will be a brick in 24 hours flat. The lather is really creamy and luscious straight out of the mold, and just gets better and better as it ages.
- All photos courtesy of Amathia Soapworks.
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- NOTES FROM ERMA: I will not be doing the swirl thing, nor adding pretties to this soap. It's for my very macho son. I will be making 2 of them. One in Sandlewood and the other in Dragons Blood scents. For those making this for people would like all of the other stuff in this recipe, I am so jealous of you! I might make some for the Grand Daughters for Christmas, then I can do all of this!
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